Here are just some of my favourite things in Buenos Aires– and a few tips I learned along the way

I loved staying at Maggie’s B&B.  Several friends suggested that I stay in the Palermo area which is very nice, but I did not find the Subte (Metro) connections very good there and that is one thing I always look for when I travel – how close am I to city transportation hubs.  Maggie’s B&B is just a block and a half from Ave. de Mayo with easy access to walk most places – or take the Subte (more below). Maggie’s apartment is in an older building with a century-old elevator that reminded me of the one in the movie Thoroughly Modern Millie (although I do not think I would tap dance in it).  The rooms were clean, bright and comfortable. Maggie is also very generous with information about Buenos Aires and helped me to acclimate to the city and how to get around it.  Breakfasts were simple but good – I loved the homemade marmalade! Using skeleton keys was an interesting experience but I also like how it just added to the charm.  Above all, Maggie is very warm and charming and I hope to stay there again on future visits to Buenos Aires – I do not think once is enough, especially since I planned my trip during a holiday weekend.  What was I thinking!

The Subte: The A Line runs underneath Ave. de Mayo and is an experience all to itself! It still has the old, wooden cars that first ran along this line in 1913 – making it the oldest subway inLatin America. One thing to remember – the British built this line, so the trains’ direction is opposite the way traffic runs.  I made this mistake, and had to get off, cross the street, and head in the “right” direction! Fortunately, the ticket takers helped me and I did not have to pay a second time (although the cost is $0.70 a ticket).

Tango Shows: There are different forms of tango – the type performed at a tango show and the types performed in the milongas.  Tango shows are really for tourists, however they are fun and I think a “must see” especially if you only have a few days to spare.  I went to Piazzolla Tango. The space is beautiful – an old-style theatre with balcony box seats above the main floor.  I was seated in the box seats with a couple fromSao Paulo,Brazil. This was my New Year’s Eve treat, so the show was a bit more expensive than it usually is. The food was ok – I have to say the steak I got was one of the largest pieces of meat I’ve ever seen on a plate! We also had a bottle of red wine on our table – and could have requested more.  The desserts were great!  We got one with dinner, and then there was a dessert table setup for the New Year’s party after the show. The show was wonderful – good performances from the dancers, the band and the singers.  Personally, I want the dresses worn by the female singer – they would fit me perfectly!  I also liked how she danced a bit, showing that sometimes the simplest tango is just as passionate as the “fancy” lifts.

The Hop-on Hop-off bus: This can be a good option to get around Buenos Aires, especially to visit some areas that are not connected via the Subte and you are not up to figuring out the strange bus routes.  That said, there are some things to help you make this a viable option. Buy your ticket online!  You get a discount, you do not have to stand in line, and, if they are “full”, you are still guaranteed a spot.  Some additional “tricks” if you have not bought a ticket online, go to the main stop (stop 0: at Diagonal Norte and Florida) to get a ticket – and if it is a weekend, go around 8:30.  The service starts at 9 – and this should give you a good chance of getting on the bus and giving you a full day to “hop off” and see things. Or give you time to take the 3 hour tour then take a nice nap during the real heat of the day! The lines were very long and they were turning people away that first two days I was in Buenos Aires.  The last day, I got up early and got on the second bus that starts at 9:30 – and by the time we go to the 6^th stop at Caminito, they were turning people away who did not already have a ticket – even though there were spaces on the bus!  I did enjoy the tour and I was able to see a few places that my walking just did not get me to!

Cafe Tortoni is consider by many to be a must see place – however because of this, it can be hard to get into because of the long line of tourists waiting to get in to see the beautiful tiffany lamps, etc.  However, go, it you do get a chance! It is a nice way to start the day and an easy walk down Ave. de Mayo to Casa Rosada (the Pink House) and the Plaza de Mayo.  In fact, it is an easy walk from the Plaza de Mayo to the Plaza del Congresso – and there are a number of wonderful places to see along the way!

 Palacio Barolo Building – near the Saenz Pena Subte stop, Line A (or halfway between Plaza de Mayo and Plaza del Congresso) – is an amazing building but I found it difficult to take really good pictures of it from the from side.  Fortunately for me, my room at Maggie’s gave me the best view and I have great pictures of the back!

Want some peace and quiet in the midst of a busy city?  Head to Plaza Francia and its neighbouring attraction, the Recoleta Cemetery.  I love my stroll through this space – then again I also loved strolling through Père Lachaise Cemetery inParis! Maybe I just have a thing for cemeteries with unique architecture!  Regardless – this is a great place to see and the opportunities for great pictures are phenomenal!

San Telmo and the Sunday Antiques Fair is a must-see!  Expect crowds of people – but also expect the unexpected – music, tango dancing, gauchos, art – just get lost in the magic!

More to come on my favourite things in Buenos Aires!

Buenos Aires Day 4
There was a change in the rhythm today – you could sense it. It was like a new energy was surging through everything and there was a new purpose to the day. I was up early—Maggie even earlier. Not only did she have to prepare for my departure, but for the arrival of a group who were going to take over her whole apartment – and she was packing her things to stay elsewhere! But, as with everything about staying with Maggie, she was warm and giving – a proper hostess!
For me, this was my last time on this trip to see “everything I need to see” before heading off to new places. I thought I would try the hop on, hop off bus one more time and if I got to the ticket office when they opened, maybe I’d have a chance! So I was out on the streets early – and it seemed that there were a lot of people out and about this time.
I thought I would save my poor feet and ride on the oldest subway line in South America – especially since the A Line goes along the Ave. de Mayo. So, for 0.70 peso (yes, that it 70 cents) I got to ride on a wooden subway car where you have to open the door – and if you are not careful you can open it while the car is moving! Of course, wrong-direction Catherine had to get on the first time going the wrong way, but with some assistance, I was able to squeeze in to a very full car and head on my way.
There was a line at the ticket office for the bus tour, however it was not like previous days – and so I was able to get a ticket and on the bus. Next time, I will remember to do this online and just show my voucher – you get a discount and you get to go to the front of the line! There are 20 stops along the way at major attractions or you can stay on for the whole loop which gives you a ~3 hours. If I time it right, I would be able to do the tour, get tango shoes (the shop was near where I got the bus) and be back to Maggie’s before the next group arrived!
I will not go into complete details on the bus tour – I will go into more details and include pictures for that. But I did get to see the Boca Juniors Stadium; Caminito, the artist’s block; The other side of Puerto Madero that I did not walk to the day before; Plaza San Martin, the English Clock Tower; the Argentina Polo Field; the Flower sculpture; Barrio Chino; the largest mosque in South America; and the Opera House where the first opera ever done there was Aida – just like the opera house in Palermo! See, this will be much better with pictures and descriptions! Once cool thing I have to mention because I’m not sure I got a good picture of this – there are people who travel around Buenos Aires in a little horse-pulled cart who go around collection recycling (plastics, paper, etc.). I thought it was interesting and the horse I saw was wearing a little straw hat! Anyway, 3 plus hours later, it was off to buy shoes!
Did I mention I hate shoe shopping? Alanis is a great place to go and she really knows feet and how to get you into the right style and size. I told her that I wear a 38 European. She looked at my feet and said, “You’ve got short, wide feet – you need a 37 wide.” She started pulling out the most appropriate shoes for me (including a pale pink pair). But then I had another problem. Remember all my walking the day before? Well, my favourite pair of walking sandals did not like it and I now had blisters that prevented me from being able to try on the shoes to ensure a proper fit – so no shoes this time. I really do hate shoe shopping. I hobbled on my sore feet back to Maggie’s to prepare to leave for the ship.
I loved staying at Maggie’s B&B. My room was perfect. I slept well and had a great view. I got all sorts of advice – stay in Palermo or Recoleta areas, etc. While both of these neighbourhoods were very nice, I prefer a more central location – especially if there is a lot of character. And let’s face it – skeleton keys, a 100 year old elevator, a beautiful, homey feel and even a bird sitting on a nest on one of the window planter boxes! I like being central to the historic district as well as able to walk to San Telmo. Maggie can also tell you a lot about the tango “scene” and can help direct you to some of the best places to go. When I come back to Buenos Aires – because you know I will – I will try to stay at Maggie’s again!
Last thing Maggie did for me is call a radio taxi to drive me to the cruise port, since Nicco was not available this time. We left together Jimmy drove me to the port. Did I mention driving in Buenos Aires? While there are clearly marked lanes on the road, these lane markers are really more of a suggestion than and actually way to keep multiple lines of vehicles from careening into each other – although I did not witness an accident, there were a few close calls.
Check-in for the ship was quick and easy and before I knew it, I was doing a tour of the ship to see where everything was – then I headed to the pools because I wanted to cool off from the heat. There is a Solarium with a hydro-spa pool – and the water was warm. Then there is the outdoor pool and that was perfect – cool and wonderful! Both are salt water pools, something I really like.
So, I sat by the pool for a bit and just settled into this new rhythm.
I had an early seating for dinner at Table 308. When I got to my table, I met Scott from Denmark. Then came 3 ladies from North Carolina who travel together – Donna, Gay and Gail. The Wine Steward, Richard, joked that Scott need there to be two more women to complete his table – and then there were two more – Judy and Mary – who are cousins – Judy is from Austin, Texas and Mary is from St. Louis, Missouri. Our waiter is Herman from Indonesia and our assistant waiter is Diana. For dinner I had a goat cheese tart, mushroom soup, prime rib and puff pastries with praline ice cream and chocolate sauce – and Spanish wine. It is a lively and entertaining group.
The first night’s show was just an into to what to expect for entertainment on the ship. There were, of course, tango dancers along with the regular cruise ship singers and dancers. The band is very good and there is an amazing Spanish guitarist.
So much for my last day in Buenos Aires and my first day at sea.

Buenos Aires Day 3
Waking up on the first day of a new year is usually a strange experience – and in a different city it can almost be surreal. My lesson for today is this: this is my trip – not anyone else’s – and if I miss some big “highlighted” place, I was not meant to see it this time around. I guess that does highlight the events of today. Let’s just say that I faced some challenges, but I made my own memories. The challenges included the following items. Is the Subtle even running today? Will anything be open in San Telmo? The heat, the sun, and feeling cold in the shade and needing water… Underestimated how far it is to walk to … Is there a bank machine that is not only accessible but has money? Water!
So, at breakfast, I was joined by the two women from South Africa who were staying in the other rooms at Maggie’s – one was from Cape Town and one from Johannesberg. They were heading to San Telmo – my plan as well. San Telmo is one of the oldest areas with cobble-stone streets and an antiques market on Sundays. Maggie did not know how much would be open today, however they said that it was open and very busy last weekend (Christmas). So, I headed out with knowledge from my research on how to use the Subtle to get there. That presented one of the challenges of the day. It should have started by 6 AM on Sunday, but there were signs (in Spanish) that indicated that the start would be later – but I did not see a time for this to occur! No problem, I can walk.
Next challenge was getting a little more cash but the first bank I thought I would try not only locked the access to the automatic teller machines, usually a swipe of your card will give you access, but the windows were shuttered up! No problem, I had some cash, I would be ok.
I headed toward Plaza de Mayo and once there, I saw people starting to set things up along one cobbled-stone street, so I figured I was heading in the right direction. I tried to find a street sign (another challenge) and did finally saw one that said I was on Defensa. Yeah! I was ACTUALLY on the street I wanted. How could that happen without a GPS or a guide dog?
While you could tell this was a slow morning for most of us, there were sights, sounds and smells everywhere. One smell was an incense that was for sale – it reminded me of a little like frankincense, but with a wildness attached to the essence. There was music of different types being played – from tango to Spanish pop to the Beatles.
Along the route, I saw a couple of beautiful churches. The first I walked by is a beautiful yellow building called the Basilica del Santisimo Rosario and the Convento de Santa Dominigo. It contains the masuleum of Manual Belgrano, whose house is next door. He is one of the important generals of Buenos Aires. I loved the statues in front of this church. The second church I saw is the Nuestra Senora de Belen, also known as the Templo de San Pedro de Telmo that was built by a Jesuit architect who started it in 1735.
As I was walking down Defensa, something caught my eye on a street called Pasaje San Lorenzo and I made a detour to only discover I found something written about in one of my guidebooks: Casa Minima. It is “famous” for being one of the smallest houses in the city at 2.5 meters across and 12 meters deep!There are a numbers of legends surrounding why this house is so small – including one that it was built by a freed slave whose former owner allowed him to build this house on his property! I found it to be very quaint as it was squeezed between two “mansions” – but painted a bright colour as it to say “Hey! Look at me – I’m beautiful!”
Heading back up De3fensa, the street become more crowded with vendors as I headed towards Plaza Dolores. I finally found a bank with an accessible ATM – only to discover that it was out of cash! That challenge continued but did not dampen my interest in the world that was opening up – the weekly Antiques Fair in Plaza Dolores. It is a small square filled to the brim with vendors and people – and as usually I always seemed to be walking “upstream” against the crowd!
The vendors were just as colourful as the people shopping – one was a gaucho selling all things … well .. gaucho! Whips, boleros, leather belts, cow bells! Then, I found a shop where I could get my typical “tourist” souvenier – an apron. This one has tango dancers on it and will blend quite nicely with the rest of my collection!
Around the plaza are a number of bars and restaurants – many featuring tango dancers (wow … que surprise!). I sat at one of the outdoor cafes to people watch and eat empanadas with cheese and roasted red peppers. It was also a great way to people watch and relax in the shade after my long walk/. I also got to watch dancers and listen to a tango band – not bad for the price of a lunch!
After spending a nice early afternoon in SanTemlo, I thought I would be able to walk along the Puerto Maderno to San Martin Plaza. Yeah, right. Maybe if it was not 31 C. and humid. Maybe if my favourite pair of walking sandals decided to give me blisters. Maybe if there were more shade! I made it from Dique 1 to Dique 4 before I finally gave up. I found a bar were I got some water and “limone aid”. Then decided to make my way “home” even though I was not quite show how far that was. I headed back to the main central area and when I spotted the Pink House, I knew I was on the right track. Heading up Ave. do Mayo – I stopped once more at a café for “café y agua mineral sin gas” and even though I said this in Spanish, I guess it was not good enough as I ended up pointing to what I wanted from the menu. At least I did try! Refreshed, I was able to get within one block of “home” before the sidewalk tripped me. Luckily, the camera was packed in my day pack and I am physically undamaged – and no one say me, so even my pride did not suffer.

The apartment was cool when I entered – even though there are no air conditioners – and I spent a few minutes resting and re-packing in preparation for the next phase of my trip. I was also a bit upset because everyone who had been here had given me great places to go – and it appeared that I would not see most. Then I reminded myself – this is my trip and my experiences and memories. I did not have to please anyone else – just remember that there is a lot more to see or do here and I will just have to plan to come back! But I decided I needed to try to have a plan for the next day.

So, as the day cooled down, I headed out for dinner. There were limited choices as many places were closed because it was a holiday. I finally settled on Café Iberia and had a waiter who was very nice. One thing I have learned about ordering café at the end of a meal meant you got an espresso (perfect) served with a small glass of agua mineral con gas and a small pastry.

I called it a successful day and a great way to start a new year.